GlobalIn the footsteps of Peter-Paul Rubens: visiting the castle he occupied at...

In the footsteps of Peter-Paul Rubens: visiting the castle he occupied at the end of his life

He was the son of notable Antwerp people who had to flee the Duke of Alba’s persecution against Protestants and settled in Siegen, in Westphalia, then in Cologne. Having renounced the Protestant religion for the Catholic one, the family returned to Antwerp in 1589, two years after the death of his father.

Rubens, with his imposing workshop, produced more than 1400 works. From 1630, the painter no longer traveled and remained in Antwerp. He lost his first wife four years earlier and remarried Hélène Fourment, aged sixteen, while he was 53. From this union four children were born.

In 1635, he bought the castle Het Steen, in Elewijt, today in the entity of Zemst, in present-day Flemish Brabant. This castle, built in 1304, has undergone numerous transformation and renovation campaigns. It was also the Rubens-Fourment couple who, from a stronghold, turned it into a pleasure castle. By Hélène’s remarriage, the castle will then pass to the Brouchovens, counts of Bergeyck. On May 11, 1746, the King of France Louis XV stayed there with his Court.

A marvel to discover. ©Jean Bernard

The famous architect of the Austrian Netherlands Laurent-Benoît Dewez, to whom we owe the Château de Seneffe, acquired it in 1773. In the 20th century, it changed owners several times, including the Tournaisian patron and businessman Paul House in 1954 who took charge of restoring it, the place having been heavily damaged during the Second World War. It should also be noted that Montgomery resided there.

In 1992, his children inherited it and remained owners until it was purchased by Toerisme Vlaanderen in 2019, with the idea of ​​opening it to the public as quickly as possible. “The “Sorties Unfold” festival is an opportunity for Toerisme Vlaanderen to open to the public one of the castles that the organization has in its portfolio. The goal is to see what destination, in the long term, can be allocated to places like this. In this case, we have decided to install an exhibition of contemporary sculptures by Belgian artists in the park, while the rooms of the castle are freely accessible until October 29. ”

Bar 1635, on the left, hosts various cultural events, six days a week.
Bar 1635, on the left, hosts various cultural events, six days a week. ©Jean Bernard

Also original, a “Rubens Suite” has been fitted out and can be reserved to spend a night at the castle, still until October 29. “The price is quite moderate because the comfort is a bit ‘rustic’. Electricity is drawn from outside the building and the bathroom is at the nearby campground. The desire, by opening, is to test certain opportunities offered by this castle, which can be considered to be the one which is in the best state of conservation. ”

For 152 euros, the Rubens Suite awaits you.
For 152 euros, the Rubens Suite awaits you. ©Jean Bernard

The ultimate goal is to renovate the half-dozen castles owned by Toerisme Vlaanderen and turn them into a tourist circuit, by 2030 if all goes well.

In the meantime, a temporary structure, “Bar 1635”, has been set up in the park, which hosts various activities – concerts, dance, theater, conferences, exhibitions, workshops for children. “We have also placed everywhere copies of paintings or drawings that Rubens made of the castle and the surrounding area. ” It is also amusing to compare the Brabant countryside four centuries away.

The castle in the Brabant countryside, painted by Rubens.
The castle in the Brabant countryside, painted by Rubens. ©Jean Bernard

Rubens Castle: Steendreef 77, 1982 Zemst. Eppegem station is not far away and shared Zingi bikes are available there for 1 euro.

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